Scroll down to read blog! Posts are in reverse order – most recent first! However, in the menu below, we have grouped them into whole trips, which can be read in chronological order! This blog was set up to be our diary of our adventures in our Campervan Boris, which are often somewhat spontaneous! however, we have also had some big adventures without Boris, and these are included here too! We have a particular interest in Good Food so this features quite frequently, and I hope to make this a useful resource for fellow travellers. Welcome :)
A fairly early start saw us on the coast road heading south. We stopped for fuel… 79p per litre… in Banyuls sur mer, a spa town just before the Spanish border. A food shop in Carrefour and we are off.
Roads are twisty and steep, climbing to the rather desolate and abandoned border crossing, redundant in these EU times. Suddenly we are in Spain. Is it our imagination, or are the hillsides more parched? And there are cactus plants too. Everywhere. How can a 2 mile stretch of road result in a change not just of country but also land use etc? Weird!
We drive through some coastal villages. The first few are less cared for than those in France, but Port Selva is smarter and busy with tourists. We pressed on and Boris attacked the climb up towards Cap de Creus , where the Pyrénées tumble into the Mediterranean. Then down we plunge towards delightful Cadaques, a charming fishing port and anchovy headquarters!
Cadaques
We had heard that campervans could park just outside town on the carpark, but the charge was 21 euros for 24 hours.
One of our main reasons for visiting was to walk to the next cove, Port Lligat, to visit the artist Salvador Dali’s house. On a blog I had read that if we drove to Port Lligat, parking was much cheaper, we could walk back to visit Cadaques, and they might even let us spend the night. So we drove over the hill to find ourself in paradise. A tiny community clustered around a stunning Mediterranean cove. Parking was 3 euros and they were very happy for us to stay the night free!
Even better, cafe Dani was an informal cafe bar which served lovely food at very cheap prices! We have found another paradise!
Dali’s house was crazy but fascinating. The positioning of windows for maximum light and the best views was inspired. He even had a mirror at the foot of his bed, angled so he could watch the sunrise on the sea!!
We then walked to Cadaques, a charming town. We mooched around and climbed up the cobbled streets of the old town to the church- Esglesia de Santa Maria. The altar back is astonishing in it’s scale, detail and the quality of the workmanship.
Altar back. Esglesia de Santa Maria
You could pay 1 euro and the whole thing was suddenly illuminated. While we were there, the timer ran out. No one realised about the possibility of paying. I waited until lots of new people were in, peering at the backdrop in the gloom. Then I popped my euro into the machine.
Magically it lit up. Most people jumped and then oooed and aaahed as if a miracle had happened… It was a great moment. If only I had hidden, and said. ‘Let there be light’ in a deep , prophetic voice, before doing it!!
Finally some super local icecream fortified us for the walk back (only 20 minutes but a steep hill nonetheless!). Then we took our chairs onto a promontory and sat for an hour reading… or in my case, working through a book designed to help me become more proficient at solving cryptic crosswords. And that was a really perfect day.
Wednesday September 2nd.
Woke to rain so drove up to the headland at Cap Creus, ignoring a sign saying NO motorhomes! We just did a short walk and a cache. It is a wild landscape. The road down is 30 minutes of twists and turns, but eventually some stunning views right across the plains of Spain, with the Pyrénées running across the horizon into the distance. We were heading for a nature and bird reserve at Parc Natural dels Aiguamolls de l’Empordà
This turned out to be an excellent place, with a large visitor centre, and 12kms of tracks with 10 bird hides and an observation tower. The man in reception told us that it was the wrong time of year.. There was no water and so very few birds. We decided to walk anyway and were rewarded with great views of a Kingfisher, 30 stork, and best of all, the wonderfully colourful Roller and Bee – eaters. A super walk.
Finally we drove on to a campsite at Montgo near L’Escala. This was a large site but less than half full so we had a large, quiet pitch to ourselves. It was immaculate and had a super swimming pool with great views of the coast. Another hour sat in the sun before cooking dinner in Boris as fast as possible to minimise the time the cooker was on… We do not need heat! Homemade Chicken and vegetable Pilaf fitted the bill.
The next morning we were awakened by a massive Thunderstorm happening directly above us. The thunder claps were so loud that poor Boris was shaking!
Thursday September 3rd.
A much fresher, but overcast morning greeted us. We left and headed South again this time to an area I had visited before and really liked…Llafranc and Calella de Palafrugell. I was really hoping they hadn’t been spoiled in the intervening years.
I needn’t have worried. They are both charming and delightful places. We parked free in Llafranr, and walked around the coast path to Callela and back. Gorgeous.
Lovely Llafranc!
Then an incredibly good value lunch in Can Leon in Llafranc. Starter, Main (paella), bread, wine and dessert…. All for £12 per person! No point cooking!
We then drove 1 mile to Camping Moby Dick!! Like many campsites here, it is terraced and in pine trees. Quite empty so we got a pitch with a great view out to sea.
Our main reason for stopping was so I could at last wash some clothes. The site advertised a laundry. We reckon on 2 hours to use the washer and tumble drier and we have a nice clean wardrobe again. Only after I had put the clothes into the washer did I realise there was no drier. I guess it is not a necessity in Spanish heat. Except it was now 5pm.
The wet clothes were duly strung along strings which were tied to the pine trees along the side of our pitch. Then comes problem 2. Ants. A perennial problem in sites like this…They started walking along the lines like a Tom and Jerry cartoon. I am sorry to say I resorted to using my ant stop spray at the ends of the lines! Needs must.
We then went 2km up the road for an evening visit to the beautiful botanic gardens at Cap Roig. Founded in 1927 by a Russian Colonel and his English bride, they are stunning, and with an azure blue Mediterranean backdrop at every turn.
Cap RoigCap Roig cacti
They hold concerts each summer, and in the last few years have hosted Bob Dylan, Sting, Katie Mel hua, Kiri te Kanawa and Elton John to name a few!
Back to the campsite for supper, we are now in bed wondering how our washing is faring! The morning will reveal all!
Well we wanted to go in search of the sun, and we certainly found it!
The last 3 days have seen temperatures up in the 30’s, and only dropping to about 24 at night. That is over 80 degrees Fahrenheit for us oldies!
Now we love Boris very much BUT after a day at those temperatures, it is like going to bed in a tin can….which is being boiled in hot water! (Does anyone among you remember Fray Bentos steak and kidney pies in a tin? !!)
We actually cheated for a few days and slept in a house, staying with Ron, my friend from California who has a house in Laurens, a charming and historic village in Languedoc.
Two manly guys drink manly rosé!
His house is charming, and from the garden the view extends to the Pyrénées. He looked after us very well.
We had a super meal at the Abbaye Sylva Plana vineyard…including this amazing lime cheesecake! Chris was very happy!
Saturday was market day in Pezenas. Super and huge market.
10 Facts you may not know about…. The Canal du Midi
1. It was built between 1666 and 1681 by Pierre-Paul Riquet to transport Wool, wheat and wine from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean avoiding the need to sail aound Spain.
2. It was first planned 100 years before that, but he was the person who worked out how to get water into it.
3. It is 150 miles long stretching from the Etang du Thon on the Mediterranean, to Toulouse where it links up with
4. Reservoirs were built in the Montagne noire, and then the water was channelled to fill the canal from the highest point, just east of Toulouse… that’s some bath to fill!
5. There are 63 locks which are unusual because they are oval in shape which makes them stronger.
6. The canal climbs 620 feet to it’s highest point.
7. The Malpas tunnel, which we walked through, was the first navigable tunnel built anywhere in the world.
8. The canal is lined with plane trees which provide shade and hold the banks together. In the past, mulberry trees were used, and silkworms supplied the silk industry.
9. It is a UNESCO world heritage site.
10. In 2004 Chris helped Pete and Penny and Lottie sail their Dutch Barge Merlin (55 feet long, weighing 35 tons!) up the whole length… including all the locks… most of which were uphill!
Sunday we did a great walk with some members of a local walking group near Olargues. The mountains were stunning, and thanks to a navigational error we walked 14km instead of 10km!! We were however fortified at lunchtime when Gordon produced a bottle of Pastis, explaing that it was a club tradition to all have some with our picnic! Well it would have been rude to refuse!
Then there was sausage night at a local vineyard! We know how to live it up!
Today we are stopped for the night at Port Vendres near Collioure and just about 7 miles from the Spanish border. Pretty port town, but most restaurants closed on Monday grrrrrr!
We didn’t want to use the cooker (too hot) so had a yummy salad!
We have dispensed with the 4 tog duvet ( I cannot mention togs without thinking of Rhod Gilbert’s brilliant tog sketch.) We are lying under a thin sheet listening to thunder rolling around the mountains and cicadas chirruping!
Tomorrow we take Boris to Spain!(I suppose technically he takes us!).
4 days that is! Wifi and phone signal have been very intermittent.
Tuesday
We headed south with the objective of avoiding motorway tolls! We had worked out that the whole trip could potentially cost us £135 in tolls. Now that is at least 4 nice meals out. No contest!
Skirting Rouen and Chartres, we crossed the Loire Valley and headed for the Brenne. A little known area of 2000 lakes, and a nature lovers paradise. What is amazing is that the lakes are all man made…. not modern gravel pits, but dug in the middle ages for carp rearing. Some of the carp were served as delicacy to the Royal court. We got out of the car and BOOM.. the warm air hit us. We so often find that after you cross the Loire the temperature goes up! We did some walks and bird spotting before finding a nice free aire in the village of Thenay for the night. Chris had to point out that we were in the dead centre of town…next to the cemetery.
The aires vary immensely. This one was super. Very peaceful , and equipped with a special area for obtaining water, emptying tanks, and for 2 euros…plugging in to electricity.
Wednesday
An early start for a drive south east to the Puy de Dome area. Definitely a shorts day! (Clothes not drinks!). Stunning scenery all the way.
7 things you didn’t know about… the Puy de Dome area.
The Puys are a range of volcanoes which erupted as recently as 11,000 years ago.
Most of them are just the lava plugs…. the volcano sides have been eroded.
The largest is the Puy de Dome which is over 4000 feet high.
On top of the Puy de Dome are the remains of a 2nd century temple dedicated to Mercury built of black lava rock.
There is a new electric rack railway to the top which is innovative and eco friendly. It generates power on it’s way down which it then uses to help power it backup.
The Puy de Pariou is a proper volcano, with a crater…and we climbed it!
The specks in the bottom are people!
The nearest city is Clermont-Ferrand which has a black cathedral mad from black lava. It can be seen from miles around.
We climbed Puy de Pariou. The views were stunning. Then got the train up the Puy de Dome. Even better! Then drove into the Auvergne hills to a tiny village to have dinner at the Auberge de l’ane. It was a local, very rustic restaurant which had a great reputation for serving 2 traditional Auvergne dishes…Truffade and Fondue Saint- Nectaire. Both were wonderful. Our 4 course meal with a glass of wine was £16 each! Heaven!
Then onto a former campsite next to Lake Aydat for the night.
Thursday.
Stunning scenery again all day. We did a 6 mile circular walk up a lovely wooded gorge…the shade was very welcome as it got up to 32 degrees today! Then drove south along the amazing toll free autoroute the A75. This must be one of the most scenic motorway drives anywhere, culminating in the Tarn gorges and the Millau viaduct.
We are now ensconced in a campsite – Camping a la cascade – in Rome de la tarn, on a terrace clinging to the side of the tarn gorge. Possibly the most dramatic campsite we have ever stayed on! Super loos and showers all for £14 per night!
Friday
Drove south again and did a stunning walk just off the A75. Great walk to break up a long drive. Up a river valley culminating in a 2nd century Roman bridge. Not a soul around. Idyllic scenery and a sleepy bridge that has stood there for 1800 years!
Finally on to Laurens in Languedoc Roussillon to stay with Ron , my friend from California who has a house here. Super meal at a local vineyard -Abbaye Sylva Plana. I love being able to sit out on the terrace listening to cicadas at 11pm. …. night night!
Our new ferry departure was at 8.30am Monday and it was pouring with rain as we checked in at Poole. We felt rather pleased to be leaving, I must say! It was a great crossing. We slept for most of it, docked early and were the 4th vehicle off the ship. In fact we were in the very conveniently located ‘Esso Port’ filling station in Cherbourg before the official ferry docking time! Even better, we had managed our fill ups carefully in England, so we had an empty tank! It was almost a delight to fill up at €1.10 per litre… 80p in sterling, saving a Massive £25 on a tankful of diesel!
Then we set off south, through a band of torrential rain and thunderstorms, towards the sun.
Or that was the plan! It was all going much too well!
We were rolling along south of Caen when we got a message to say Margaret, my Godmother, was back in hospital! She has been so well lately, which is why we felt we could risk a longer trip, so this was a big shock.
We halted our drive south, but the information we could get was very mixed so we took the decision to drive east towards Calais, so if we did decide to return to England, that would be the cheapest and quickest way to do it.
To cut a long story short, we had a roller coaster of messages, but at 3.15 am ( yes you did read that correctly), I finally managed to speak to a Dr, who said they felt she could probably return home today as she had responded well and was not in any danger.
By this time we had stopped in a delightful village called Clères, at a super free Aire. These are areas for self contained motorhome that many places in France provide either free of charge or for a few euros. Clères is free, level, quiet and sheltered. A gold star from us!
En route we stopped for a leg stretch at Pont Audemer… rather grandly called The Venice of Normandy’. It does have canals and some lovely timbered buildings, and is twinned with Ringwood, our neighbouring town at home.
Anyway, I think we will resume our route South as Margaret has excellent carers and the news is good. Of course I will confirm it with Chris in the morning when he wakes up. He has slept through 3 quite long conversations with the hospital and is oblivious to the developments!
This is not the title of the next Jilly Cooper novel! Sadly, it only relates to our stint at Trailtrekker for Oxfam.
We were on Checkpoint 3 – this is 42 miles into the course. It was in a tiny village in beautiful (but remote) e, in the Yorkshire Dales. Most people were expected through here between 10pm and 5.30 am so our shift was 11.30pm – 6.am!
We drove up there Saturday morning to find a good spot for Boris. Unfortunately good = the least squelchy part of the field we could find! Even on mats we could see poor Boris sinking slightly!
Still ….we had a free day so we did a super walk up over a large hill and down into the next dale where we hoped to revisit an old haunt – The White Lion…only to find it closed for refurbishment 😦 4 miles later we found the wonderful George at Hubberholme http://www.thegeorge-inn.co.uk/ , which more than made up for it with a great pint of Black Sheep Ale for Chris, and super Fish, Chips and Mushy Peas for £6.95! We then managed a doze in the early evening but then , as we played Rummikub the heavens opened. For 90 minutes a massive storm raged all around, and all we could think of were the 700 walkers out there somewhere.
When our shift started we were told that the walk had been put on hold, with everyone being held at the checkpoints and waterstops because the roads were flooded and the high paths were too dangerous. Then we heard that the river had burst it’s banks so some of the footpaths were underwater. Amazingly – most people at the checkpoint were just getting restless because they wanted to get going again.
Eventually they were given the all clear, but at the stop before us, where the river had flooded the paths, people had to be rescued and brought to us by minibus.
Still, the vast majority wanted to carry on, despite sodden clothing, blisters, aching joints etc. Despite what this sounds like, the safety was excellent, and they were all given the opportunity of medical checks etc. It is a tribute to the organisation of the event that everyone was safe, fed and watered and able to continue if they wanted to. At times, the huge tent felt like a war zone! We all mucked in doing anything that was required – a lot of work with endlessly emptying bins, and teas and coffees (yes you did read that right!), as well as being a mentor, confidante, first aider and general person to lean on! Every team has a support crew that drive and meet them at the checkpoints. The well organised ones have huge boxes of dry clothes, spare footwear, plasters etc. The less prepared ones look on enviously and say…we’ll do it better next time!
We were awed by their drive and determination, and the total event should raise £750,000! That is staggering…. and most of them will be today!
So – 6.30am…. back at Boris… and, like every other vehicle on the field we had to be towed out of the mud! Then down to a car park in Skipton where we managed 2 hours sleep before driving home! Now we are back at Sopers Lane a day early……. so – what do you do in those circumstances…. you change your ferry booking and go on Monday instead of Tuesday!
So – bedlinen is changed, Boris all cleaned and prepared. Yorkshire clothing and maps removed and French and Spanish supplies installed! Yippee! A demain!
Boris is installed on a school playing field in Skipton with a stunning view over the Yorkshire Dales.
We are here as volunteers for Oxfam who organise a huge walking event each year called Trailtrekker. Teams of 4 walk 100km in a maximum of 30 hours. Right up your street maybe Nicola Simpson and Jen ! Lots of Tough mudders here!
There are over 700 walkers and with entrance fees and sponsorship it can raise over £500,000 for Oxfam, which is incredible. It us a great way to help!
We walked into Skipton…very pretty with many narrow boats on the Leeds and Liverpool canal. We found a tug boat selling icecream, and discovered that the mills here were built in the early 1800’s by the Dewhurst family. Their main product here was Sylco cottons.
The mills have been nicely converted into apartments.
Tonight we were checking in the teams, who start walking early tomorrow. Our main shift is on checkpoint 3 at the 65 km mark, in Buckden, right at the head of Wharfdale. Sadly the shift is from 23.30pm tomorrow until 6am Sunday so the views won’t be too great.
The weather forecast isn’t great but we hope to get a walk in ourselves tomorrow….and maybe some sleep before the night shift!
Wednesday was spent dashing to Boris with armfuls of bedding and clothes trying to avoid the torrential rain which fell all day. There was the potential for a comedy sketch at one point, where I was holding a large basket of clothes. I didn’t want to put it on the ground, so I wedged it between me and the van to free up a hand to open the door. As I re-gripped the basket, the van door swung closed! This happened several times…with the basket slipping further and further down the van at the same time! We could have sold the clip to You’ve been Framed!
This trip will be our longest single trip in Boris, and so a few extra provisions are required. I am gluten intolerant so taking gluten free food with us is important, as we never know how easy it will be to obtain.
We are also trying to cater for potentially quite a wide range of temperatures, so a wide variety of bedding options are required! We finally decided on 2 x 4.5 tog double duvets, and a top sheet as this gives us a range of top covers from just a sheet to 9 togs, without us needing to try to fit a thick duvet in a locker. This time I also remembered to pack a spare spare bed linen – very important as last time we were away for several weeks, I washed the bedlinen at a campsite part way through the trip, only to find that the tumble drier was broken, and I couldn’t get the bedding dry!
Izzie has gone to stay with Alan and Sue, and by all accounts is making herself at home already; the children are living at home and will look after the hpuse, so now we are ready for the Off! Our plan is to go to France and Northern Spain, and it will include visiting some friends en route.
My ritual before we leave is walking around the house , opening all the cupboards and drawers and looking to see if there is anything in them that I think I should have packed! There is still usually something that gets forgotten! I wonder what it will be this time!
Many of you know that we live in the beautiful county of Dorset, on the coast of the South of England. So…. as we drive away from home, and off on our travels, which way do you think we are heading?
‘South’ we hear some of you cry! Ah…. but some may do some lateral thinking and say ‘East’ – thinking logically that we might be heading to Portsmouth to catch the ferry; or ‘West’ because we might go to Poole for the same reason.
Well how wrong you would all be! Naturally we are heading due North. Yes – we have got the road atlas the right way up! Due to a small reshuffle of arrangements we have a pre-arranged commitment this weekend…. in Yorkshire! So we have to go up there first before returning south to catch the ferry from Poole next week!
So, today’s adventures start with a first leg to Warwick where we will be staying on one of our favourite campsites! Grey skies and drizzle accompanied us for the first 30 miles but it was dry when we reached Blenheim Palace near Oxford. The wonderful golden stone set the scene for the sumptuous interior, and an excellent exhibition about Winston Churchill who was born, and is buried here.
The gardens are quite formal but beautifully laid out and the setting by the lake, and the parkland offer delightful walks.
Blenheim is part of the Historic Houses Association. Membership is £75 for a couple for 1 year (Discounted to £48 for English Heritage members.) Given that admission to Blenheim is £23pp , HHA membership is excellent value. It also gives you the chance to visit smaller and less well known stately homes, as well as places like Beaulieu and Highclere castle (home of Downton Abbey!)
Finally we drove on to Warwick for a night on one of the best campsites in England…Our friends Paul and Pam’s drive!
A super evening and a great first day of the holiday!
To bimblev.…intr. To move at a leisurely pace; to amble, wander.…
Boris …. a 2007 Renault Master long wheel base, extra high top van, converted from new into a camper van, affectionately known as ‘Boris the Bus’.
Boris’ owners are Anne and Chris who purchased him in January 2013 with a view to finally moving up from tent camping to having something a little more solid around them!
Chris is 62 years old, a maths teacher and sailor! Repeatedly thwarted from sailing by adverse tides,weather and work, I think he views Boris as a sort of Land Yacht!
Anne,(that’s me!), is 55 years old, a Specialist Speech and Language Therapist and an inveterate nomad. Ever since childhood I have needed to know what is around the next corner. Pitching a tent for more than a few nights in one place is a struggle for me, so having a tent on wheels seemed the perfect solution to me in my quest to explore new places and revisit old haunts.
Between us we have 4 children, the youngest of whom is 24, so we are not abandoning minors to indulge our hobby! When I was having my first child at 23, it was the generation of empowered women who all wanted to wait until they were at least in their mid thirties before tying themselves down with children. All I can say is that I am SO glad I am not the one dealing with stroppy teenagers at this age!
Our biggest tie is Izzie, our 16 year old rescue cat. Luckily she has a lovely holiday home that she goes to when we are away. In fact, she seems to prefer it there as our friends have a super log burning stove. As soon as we appear to pick her up after a trip she rushes away to hide under a bed or table!
Obviously we should have started this blog in 2013 when we embarked upon our adventures… but we didn’t. Better late than never.
We are not yet in a position to rent out our house and disappear for a year or two, but I am self-employed and so can free up a reasonable amount of time, so our travels are a mix of short and long trips.
Our objective with the blog is to provide an occasional narrative of those trips, which is hopefully entertaining, but also contains useful and practical information to others doing similar things.
We will welcome comments and constructive criticism, if in fact I ever work out how to post this blog in a way that anyone else can see it!
The positioning of windows for maximum light and the best views was inspired. He even had a mirror at the foot of his bed, angled so he could watch the sunrise on the sea!!
He looked after us very well.
Chris was very happy!
The mountains were stunning, and thanks to a navigational error we walked 14km instead of 10km!! We were however fortified at lunchtime when Gordon produced a bottle of Pastis, explaing that it was a club tradition to all have some with our picnic! Well it would have been rude to refuse!
We felt rather pleased to be leaving, I must say! It was a great crossing. We slept for most of it, docked early and were the 4th vehicle off the ship. In fact we were in the very conveniently located ‘Esso Port’ filling station in Cherbourg before the official ferry docking time! Even better, we had managed our fill ups carefully in England, so we had an empty tank! It was almost a delight to fill up at €1.10 per litre… 80p in sterling, saving a Massive £25 on a tankful of diesel!
We all mucked in doing anything that was required – a lot of work with endlessly emptying bins, and teas and coffees (yes you did read that right!), as well as being a mentor, confidante, first aider and general person to lean on! Every team has a support crew that drive and meet them at the checkpoints. The well organised ones have huge boxes of dry clothes, spare footwear, plasters etc. The less prepared ones look on enviously and say…we’ll do it better next time!
Our main shift is on checkpoint 3 at the 65 km mark, in Buckden, right at the head of Wharfdale. Sadly the shift is from 23.30pm tomorrow until 6am Sunday so the views won’t be too great.
Wednesday was spent dashing to Boris with armfuls of bedding and clothes trying to avoid the torrential rain which fell all day. There was the potential for a comedy sketch at one point, where I was holding a large basket of clothes. I didn’t want to put it on the ground, so I wedged it between me and the van to free up a hand to open the door. As I re-gripped the basket, the van door swung closed! This happened several times…with the basket slipping further and further down the van at the same time! We could have sold the clip to You’ve been Framed!
Bimbling! 