Our last night in South America was spent in Lima, a huge city of over 10 million people. We had heard conflicting reports, from “Don’t go there”, to “You will love it”. Certainly, it is a troubled city. Like Rio and B.A, it has large shanty towns which are trouble hotspots, exacerbated by Peru opening it’s doors to Venezuelan refugees, and admitting over a million, with, apparently, no background checks at all, so most people we spoke to, feel that a large criminal element have entered as well.
I had found a small B&B in Barranco, a safe coastal part of Lima, famed for it’s architecture, and artistic background.
The B&B was called Second Home, and was exactly that, the second home and studio of artist Victor Delfin. He had sadly died a few years ago, but his wife still lives there. The building is full of his very distinctive artwork, and we were also to find some in Lima the following day.
Our room was lovely, with a view of the Pacific Ocean. Looking along the coast, we decided Lima is very like Bournemouth! Both set on cliffs, with deep Chines cutting down to the sea at intervals, and even a pier!!
Next day we had booked a 1 day tour of Lima before our transfer to the airport, with Peruvian Local friend, Cindy. She was remarkable. So enthusiastic and knowledgeable about her city. We saw Miraflores, full of early 20th century, European summer houses,
and the famous Garden of Love, with Gaudi style walls, and a Victor Delfin statue.
A festival of Love is held each year, with a competition for the longest kiss. 45 minutes is the record! Then onto the Olive park, planted as an oil crop by the Spanish, where some trees are over 300 years old.
Most remarkably, in the heart of the city, are the remains of some huge pyramids, Huaca Pucllana and Huallamarca, built by the Wari people around 500 AD. Built wholly in mud (adobe) bricks, they were solid inside, with a flat top, and were not burial chambers, but probably for meetings, rituals and sacrifices.
The largest would have covered 15 acres! They could be made of mud because they hardly ever get rain here. Also, mud is flexible if earthquakes strike. Lima is the second driest capital in the world, after Cairo. Water shortages are common, and over 10% of the city is not connected to running water. 20% of the city is classed as shanty town.
Then we headed downtown to the old heart of Lima, which was a wonderful surprise of elegant plazas and beautiful colonial buildings.
Founded by Spanish Conquistador, Pisarro in 1535, This city was the most important in South America for many years, controlling trade and Government in all the other conquered countries.
One week previously, the Government had made the central square, Plaza des Armas, pedestrianised, so it was even quite peaceful.
The fountain is very famous. Throughout the trip we have drunk many Pisco sours, based on the grape brandy Pisco. In July, peruvians celebrate Pisco day, when the fountain runs, not with water, but Pisco, and people queue for a free drink!
Government house reminded us of Buckingham Palace… and then we were told they have Changing of the guard each day!
The other main square is Plaza San Martin, named after Jose San Martin, who liberated them from Spanish rule in 1824.
Many of the old houses in Lima were famous for their beautiful wooden balconies.
We also visited the ornate church of Las Nazarenas,
and the Santo Domingo convent, which is where this first University of Lima was founded.
The convents all had beautiful ancient libraries.
This dais is where students had to read out 3 hour, prepared dissertations to their examiners!
The cloisters were beautiful, with original Spanish tiles dating from 1606.
Our next visit was to a the oldest private house in Lima, which has been lived in by the Aliaga family since 1535. It is a living museum, and was beautiful.
Much of the wall covering, and chair backs, was tooled leather.
We visited the old railway station,
and an old hotel bar, with Spanish wall paintings, photos of old Lima, and a barman who has worked there for over 70 years!
The final highlight was the church and monastery San Francisco, with it’s moorish influenced architecture.
It is most famous for the catacombs. Their construction is so strong, that they are a designated earthquake shelter. Tens of thousands of people are buried here, and the bones are all grouped in rather weird ways!! This intricate pattern is in a huge well, and is composed of femurs and skulls!
Despite this rather macabre spot, we loved Lima, and our guide Cindy said she has seen many improvements here during her lifetime.
We knew that in the 70s 80s and 90s Peru was in the dark period of attacks from its rebel Shining Path terrorist, communist party. However we didn’t realise that tourism in Peru did not really get going again until 2007, so is relatively new.
Sadly, now it was time to head to the airport for our flight home, ending this amazing trip.
We know we are so lucky to have been able to explore this captivating and diverse continent. On the flight home we discussed our overall impressions.
Everyone we met was friendly, helpful, proud of their country, and interested in us. We never felt unsafe.
No upset tummies or nasty insect bites!
We met very few other British people, suggesting it is not a mainstream destination for us, which is a shame.
Most countries were similar in price to home for food, accommodation etc.
Travelling was easier than we expected, and food was great however there is immense poverty, and a huge divide in living conditions etc.
Corruption seems to be rife at all levels in society, from Governments downwards.
Women often seemed to work ridiculously hard, but are a long way from having equality in financial remuneration or status.
Despite the vast size and diversity of the continent, we felt we witnessed more similarities than differences between countries!
We covered 29,358 miles and enjoyed everywhere we visited.
We have tried to pick some favourites because that it what everyone asks us, but it is so difficult.
Favourite countries?
Chris: Chile, Ecuador
Anne: Argentina, Chile, Peru, Ecuador, Cuba, Bolivia… all of them really!
Best overall moments?
Chris: Cape Horn; Under Iguasu Falls in a rib; Machu Pichu; Cloud forest rare birds; Perito Moreno glacier;
Anne: Seeing Machu Pichu from above; Cape Horn in Force 10; Snorkelling with sea lions and sea turtles; The colour, noise and vivacity of Cuba; The remoteness and solitude of Tierra del Fuego/Patagonia.
Favourite Wildlife experience?
Chris: Swimming with sea turtles, Galapagos
Anne: Frigate birds, Galapagos
Favourite scenery experience?
Chris: Iguasu falls, Glacier Alley
Anne: Perito Moreno Glacier,
Where would you most like to go back to?
Chris: Chile
Anne: Argentina and Bolivia
Thank you for reading our diary, and we hope you have enjoyed coming along with us on our trip.
We would recommend any of these countries for a visit, just use common sense, and please, use local tour companies, guides, accommodation and transport whenever you can, so the local community benefit from your visit. See you next time! XX
Cusco means navel, because it was the centre and capital of the Inca kingdom, which at it’s height stretched to Chile, Ecuador, Bolivia and Argentina. We had just 1 day, so chose to do an excellent walking tour with Inka Milky Way! Our guide was excellent, it is a beautiful city and we learned so much.
There were once 15 Inca palaces in Cusco, but when the Spanish came, they demolished them, and used the stones to build Spanish colonial style buildings and churches.
One Inca wall remains, plus recently discovered Inca Palace foundations, showing a symmetrical pattern of rooms, and a water system.
Outside town is Sacsayhuaman, an Inca citadel with amazing walls all with the mortar less construction.
Later, I visited the Cathedral, which is really 3 churches in one. The Gold and silver decoration is dazzling, as were the intricately carved wooden choir stalls and screen.
We have been learning how, when the Spanish invaded, they imposed Catholicism on the local people. Many adopted it, but retained their allegiance to their original deities, gods of Sun, Moon and Patcha Mamma, or mother earth. So it is not unusual to see Inca imagery and local customs entwined with Catholic symbolism in churches. In Peru, Guinea pig, or Cuy, is a very popular food. (We have eaten Llama , Alpaca but resisted the temptation of Cuy..partly because it is very expensive!) To return to the cathedral, inside is a huge painting in Rennaissance style, done in about 1750 by local artist Marcos Zapata.
However the food in the painting is not fishes and bread, but Guinea pig and potatoes!! No photos were allowed, but I sneaked these!Following our tour, we embarked on a cookery course. Jesus took us on a very informative tour of the market, which was built by Gustav Eiffel! Outside, he explained that street food is a main way to eat in Peru, and many people will take meals this way, especially breakfast.
Inside the market, masks were popular. These were designs from the past when the locals mimicked their Spanish rulers, depicting them with big noses and moustaches!
These were some of the highlights:The jelly stall… including a creamy cow bone marrow one!
Many different potatoes… including ones which are freeze dried by being left outside, high on the altiplano, where it is hot in the day and below freezing at night. They keep forever. Just rehydrate and use.
Drying is a very popular method of preservation. This rather unappetizing stall sold very dried fish!
Every part of the pig is eaten.
And not for the squeamish, aborted Llama fetuses are dried, and sold to be used as offerings to the Gods.
Many varieties of Quinoa…. (now we know it is officially pronounced ‘keenwah’), which we saw growing everywhere…it is very pretty crop.
55 varieties of corn, and popcorn is hugely popular (excuse the pun!)
We bought many exotic fruits and vegetables, and returned to his studio for our cooking class.
First, and most important how to make the perfect Pisco Sour.
Then we made: 3 types of Ceviche.. raw fish cooked simply by placing it in citrus based marinade. All were gorgeous.
Then, a potato souffle, Quinoa Risotto and a 3 fruit dessert.
It was good fun and yummy!Next day and another adventure. I had booked tickets on the recently revived 10.5 hour train trip up through the Andes from Cusco up to Puno, on Lake Titicaca (12,650 feet). We splashed out at £150 each, but we had no idea what to expect, and as you know, Chris loves trains, so it was an early Anniversary present.
It was fantastic. The time literally flew by! A beautiful train with a partly open observation car made viewing the stunning scenery a real pleasure.
As we travelled there was frequent tooting, as there are no level crossings, and people, animals and vehicles freely cross the tracks. Not everyone was happy… dogs howled and many children covered their ears!!
Plantain and corn nibbles, plus tea coffee and water were freely available. Then, welcome Pisco sours (at 10.30 am!!), really superb local musicians and dancers who did 2 different shows, and a fashion show of baby alpaca clothing!
Audience participation was actively encouraged.
The guitarist was a secret rocker, and we had the slightly surreal experience of him launching into Jimi Hendrix and Chuck Berry numbers between the Panpipes!!A great 3 course lunch, with wine, and afternoon tea were all included in the price.And, the loveliest toilets, kept spotlessly clean throughout. Take note British railways!
We also stopped at the highest point on the route, at 4,139 metres or 13,698 feet where we were able to buy some handicrafts made by local people.
We passed through Peru’ Guinea pig breeding heartland, and learned that 65 million are consumed here each year!
We literally drove though the market in Juliaca, and as we passed, stalls were re-erected on the track. Many things were left between the rails for us to pass over. As soon as the train had gone, the track was filling up again. But Peru, like most South American countries, has a massive poverty problem. A close look showed large sections of the market selling things we would throw away as rubbish.
Decrepit housing – 22% of peruvians have no direct water supply! And these shacks are the toilets for the nearby housing.
We also saw people washing clothes in the rather murky river.
Throughout our trip we have seen terrible poverty, and social divisions, but again in Peru we were told that by using local firms and small businesses, we were helping the economy, and reaching the lower paid in the society.Still, we felt guilty, returning to our lovely journey! We arrived in the city of Puno, on the shores of Lake Titicaca, in the dark, and were taken by taxi to Mirador de Titicaca… our hotel. We knew it was a little out of town, but not that it was up an almost vertical dirt road!!We knew we were high, as we were out of breath just walking to the loo!! It turned out we were just over 4,000 metres! Luckily, apart from a slight headache, tiredness and breathlessness, we escaped the worst side effects of being at such a high altitude. It is a very real problem, and most hotels, and the train, have oxygen cylinders at the ready.
Apparently, at this height, oxygen saturation drops to 65-75%. Normally, doctors get worried below 94%! The hotel was lovely, but we would have to wait until morning for a view of the highest navigable lake in the world!
Bimbling! 